In my search for more information about Keffiyeh (also spelled Kufiyeh), the traditional scarf worn by Palestinian men, I stumbled upon this film. It is a short piece that outlines the history of the scarf, the meanings behind the different colors and patterns, and the struggle of one man who owns and operates the sole remaining keffiyeh factory in Palestine. As the film discusses, the rise in political restrictions on Palestine’s borders and its ability to export coupled with the low textile production prices in China have greatly impacted this historical industry.
According to my limited research, the scarf was born out of Palestinian nationalism during the 1936-1939 Arab Revolt. This two year war was a direct response to Jewish immigration and is credited as the incubation period and resulting birth of strong Palestinian nationalism and identity. A clear separation between immigrant Jews and Palestinian Arabs was growing and a corresponding symbol was needed to express this differentiation–thus the keffiyeh, with its politically significant colorways, was created. Later, Yasser Arafat became the most well-known Palestinian leader to wear the keffiyeh. Chairman of the Palestinian Liberation Organization (PLO), Arafat only enhanced the symbolism of the scarf by wearing in its most traditional way (wrapped around the head and draped over the shoulders) as well as arranging the cloth over his shoulder to supposedly mimic the shape of Palestine. History reminds us of the hundreds of years that this country’s borders and its freedom have been debated. Therefore, the importance of this political leader wearing the keffiyeh in this way was a true fashion statement.
During the 1980s this accessory became popular in Western cultures, especially among Jewish Americans and those supporting the Pro-Palestinian movement. The keffiyeh then saw another resurgence in the early 21st century when young Americans, culturally classified as “hipsters”, began to sport the scarf. My brief Google image search of the word “hipster” resulted in the above image appearing on the first page. The young man on the left is wearing a scarf that resembles very closely the keffiyeh. It may not be the exact pattern but it certainly reflects the same overall shape and feel. It is also worn in the same manner that most hipsters now wear the keffiyeh–folded in half with the triangle facing down the center of the body. Whether or not most keffiyeh-bearing hipsters are aware of the political message they are portraying in wearing this scarf I do not know. However, I am pretty sure that at this point in time in America the meaning and cultural significance of this object has been lost in translation and by those who choose to wear it for reasons other than the way it was originally intended. The sale of these scarves at Urban Outfitters and TopShop only perpetuates this fashionable ignorance.
All of this history distracted me from my original intention, which was to share this enlightening film and also consider what other symbolic textiles we misrepresent or misuse within our society today (our national flag, perhaps). Particularly, are there other clothing and accessories that we wear under the veil of popular fashion without understanding their true meaning? Would it be possible to develop a similar scarf that could similarly cross borders but with a message that could not be co-opted? Lastly, this film reminds us to think about why it is that we allow our traditional industries, such as the textile industry, whether they be in the US or Palestine, to suffer at the hands of cheap foreign labor.
Ultimately, it is stories, such as the one that is portrayed in this film, that enhance and grow my appreciation of textiles everyday. History and politics are told through keffiyeh and this is our small reminder to you, and ourselves at the studio, of this textile’s wonderful story. JRH